{"__v":5,"_id":"56a6af69f857190d00c912f2","category":{"__v":10,"_id":"56a6a012b3ffe00d00156f1e","pages":["56a6a020ef5b2f0d00404364","56a6a303f857190d00c912ed","56a6a5b32ec8310d007bc25c","56a6a81932db8217006c3646","56a6aa8b72faef2100747b07","56a6ae9ccc92d02b00abf3ad","56a6af69f857190d00c912f2","56a6b1d3fc3f8d17001ecda4","56a6b8c4683cfb0d00dc58c3","56a6baa325345621004b7089"],"project":"5511fc8c0c1a08190077f90c","version":"5511fc8d0c1a08190077f90f","sync":{"url":"","isSync":false},"reference":false,"createdAt":"2016-01-25T22:22:10.100Z","from_sync":false,"order":4,"slug":"beekeeping-crash-course","title":"Beekeeping Crash Course"},"project":"5511fc8c0c1a08190077f90c","user":"550b4d5f42c99b2d00e0a68f","version":{"__v":7,"_id":"5511fc8d0c1a08190077f90f","project":"5511fc8c0c1a08190077f90c","createdAt":"2015-03-25T00:08:45.273Z","releaseDate":"2015-03-25T00:08:45.273Z","categories":["5511fc8d0c1a08190077f910","5511fd52c1b13537009f5d31","568ecb0cbeb2700d004717ee","568ecb149ebef90d0087271a","568ecb1cbdb9260d00149d42","56a6a012b3ffe00d00156f1e","56a6bfe37ef6620d00e2f25f"],"is_deprecated":false,"is_hidden":false,"is_beta":false,"is_stable":true,"codename":"","version_clean":"1.0.0","version":"1.0"},"updates":[],"next":{"pages":[],"description":""},"createdAt":"2016-01-25T23:27:37.811Z","link_external":false,"link_url":"","githubsync":"","sync_unique":"","hidden":false,"api":{"results":{"codes":[]},"settings":"","auth":"required","params":[],"url":""},"isReference":false,"order":6,"body":"[block:api-header]\n{\n  \"type\": \"basic\",\n  \"title\": \"The Warre Hive\"\n}\n[/block]\nEach hive has its own particular methodology and principles to follow. It is recommended that the reader research and study the Warré and natural beekeeping to get a perspective of its history and pracise, and also to become more familiar with the basics of bee biology. Many Books and best practise manuals have been written about using the Warré hive and so much information cannot be transfered here. However, we have listed a number of references included David Heaf’s book “Natural Beekeeping with the Warré” and encourage you to read also Phil Chandlers writtings and refer to the [Bio-bees forum](http://www.biobees.com/) on the same subject.\n\n##Stacking Boxes\nIn the Barcelona Warré, we have supplied initially three stacking boxes. The boxes are normally referred to by their layers with the brood box at the bottom, a window box or inspection box in the middle and a number of super boxes at the top. There is no difference between the construction of these boxes but rather they are named by the activities that go on inside. As the colony grows into the hive and begins to fill it, new boxes can be added. We have usually started with two boxes for a new colony as a single box can be filled quickly.\n\nFollowing the natural beekeeping method any new boxes should be added to the bottom of the stack, meaning that the queen will begin to spend more time laying eggs in the fresh comb at the bottom of the stack, and that the top boxes are used as a honey store. A Warré hive can be stacked up to five boxes high.\n\n##Quilt Box\nNormally a separate box is added to the inside of the roof cavity and is known as the quilt box. However in the Barcelona Warré hive we have designed in what we call a quilt frame. This acts in exactly the same way as the quilt box but is built directly into the roof. The quilt is usually made up of a layer of sawdust, and acts an insulating layer. The quilt also allows for ventilation to circulate naturally through the hive.\n[block:api-header]\n{\n  \"type\": \"basic\",\n  \"title\": \"Hive Inspection\"\n}\n[/block]\nThe best time to inspect your colony is during the day when temperatures are above 60 degrees fahrenheit/15 degrees celsius, without wind or rain. Opening the hive at colder times (especially when misty) has been likened to ripping the bed covers o  a sleeping person on a cold Winters morning. It will bother the bees and is not advised! The bees also maintain a temperature of up to 90 degrees within the brood cluster. If the brood gets too cold, it can die.\n\nWhen working in your hive it is important to be calm and move intentionally. In a top bar hive the bees sometimes attach comb to the hive walls. Check before removing frames from the hive, and do so carefully.\n\n##What to Look For\nWhen inspecting your colony, your main objective is to  nd evidence of a healthy queen. You can be sure your hive has a queen if you  nd the her inside, or if there are eggs in the hive. After 24 hrs eggs hatch into larvae. Eggs are evidence that the queen was present within the last 24 hours, which is second best to  nding the queen herself. Ideally you can  nd both to know the queen is present AND laying eggs. It takes practice to  nd the queen and recognize eggs. Eggs look like small grains of rice at the bottom of a cell, setting them apart from crescent moon-shaped larvae. If you wear glasses remember to bring them with you when inspecting the hive. Moving the frames into the sun sometimes makes it easier to see.\n\nOther things to notice when inspecting your hive are pearly-white plump larvae in many stages of growth, convex cell cappings, calm worker bees, and plenty of food stores. If worker bees look deformed, larvae is brown and/or twisted, mites are observed on the backs of any bees, there is a lack of colony growth, brood is dead in the cells, or anything else unusual, consult additional resources to  nd out what is going on inside your hive. As mentioned before, the best way to monitor your bees health is to spend plenty of time with them so you will notice when something is different or wrong.\n\n##Watching for Swarming\nIn Spring months, if your colony is strong and healthy it is natural for them to swarm. You can manage your colony to prevent swarming by giving the bees more space. Be careful not to do this too soon or too fast, because the bees still need to heat the space. If you find swarm cells - queen cells on the outer edges of the frames - this is a sign the bees are already getting ready to swarm. Once this happens it is hard to convince them otherwise.\n[block:api-header]\n{\n  \"type\": \"basic\",\n  \"title\": \"Preparing the Hive for Winter\"\n}\n[/block]\nWhen the last warm days of the season are coming near it is time to get your bees ready for Winter. Using the follower board or false wall, close down the hive to contain only the brood cluster and honey stores. It is best to feed your bees and insulate them with a breathable material. Burtap or tarpaper are sometimes used. Do not use plastic, this can cause molding. You can also use hay bales to block the hive from cold winds. Fall is also the time to administer any medications or mite treatments if you choose to do so. Be sure to wait until after honey harvest to treat your bees. Once you close the hive down for the Winter leave it shut until warm Spring days return. The bees will seal everything with propolis, and you do not want to break their seals during cold weather months.\n[block:api-header]\n{\n  \"type\": \"basic\",\n  \"title\": \"Harvesting Honey\"\n}\n[/block]\nHarvesting honey from your top bar hive is easy to do. Simply use a bee brush to remove the bees from the comb that is full of honey, and cut the comb from the top bar. Smoke can also be used to chase bees from honeycomb. Hang a nylon paint strainer into a  ve gallon, food grade bucket. The cut comb can be placed or smashed inside the paint strainer. Honey is heavier than wax and will drain out of the strainer into the bottom of your bucket. This method works best if your honey bucket it kept in a warm place. Comb can also be cut and placed directly into jars. Cover the honey as soon as it is removed or it will be di cult to leave without lots of bees.\n\nHoneybees make honey to sustain themselves through long cold Winters. Depending on how long and cold the Winter is, the bees will need a varying amount of honey to make it until Spring. Ideally, a beekeeper’s job is to manipulate the colony into making excess stores so there is enough for us to take. Yet it is hard to guess how long and hard the Winter will be or how much honey the bees will need. Some beekeepers calculate how much honey to take by weight. Some hobbyist beekeepers wait until Spring and take whatever is left over.\n\n**Congratulations! You now know the basics of Top Bar beekeeping!**","excerpt":"","slug":"working-in-the-warré-hive","type":"basic","title":"Working in the Warré Hive"}

Working in the Warré Hive


[block:api-header] { "type": "basic", "title": "The Warre Hive" } [/block] Each hive has its own particular methodology and principles to follow. It is recommended that the reader research and study the Warré and natural beekeeping to get a perspective of its history and pracise, and also to become more familiar with the basics of bee biology. Many Books and best practise manuals have been written about using the Warré hive and so much information cannot be transfered here. However, we have listed a number of references included David Heaf’s book “Natural Beekeeping with the Warré” and encourage you to read also Phil Chandlers writtings and refer to the [Bio-bees forum](http://www.biobees.com/) on the same subject. ##Stacking Boxes In the Barcelona Warré, we have supplied initially three stacking boxes. The boxes are normally referred to by their layers with the brood box at the bottom, a window box or inspection box in the middle and a number of super boxes at the top. There is no difference between the construction of these boxes but rather they are named by the activities that go on inside. As the colony grows into the hive and begins to fill it, new boxes can be added. We have usually started with two boxes for a new colony as a single box can be filled quickly. Following the natural beekeeping method any new boxes should be added to the bottom of the stack, meaning that the queen will begin to spend more time laying eggs in the fresh comb at the bottom of the stack, and that the top boxes are used as a honey store. A Warré hive can be stacked up to five boxes high. ##Quilt Box Normally a separate box is added to the inside of the roof cavity and is known as the quilt box. However in the Barcelona Warré hive we have designed in what we call a quilt frame. This acts in exactly the same way as the quilt box but is built directly into the roof. The quilt is usually made up of a layer of sawdust, and acts an insulating layer. The quilt also allows for ventilation to circulate naturally through the hive. [block:api-header] { "type": "basic", "title": "Hive Inspection" } [/block] The best time to inspect your colony is during the day when temperatures are above 60 degrees fahrenheit/15 degrees celsius, without wind or rain. Opening the hive at colder times (especially when misty) has been likened to ripping the bed covers o a sleeping person on a cold Winters morning. It will bother the bees and is not advised! The bees also maintain a temperature of up to 90 degrees within the brood cluster. If the brood gets too cold, it can die. When working in your hive it is important to be calm and move intentionally. In a top bar hive the bees sometimes attach comb to the hive walls. Check before removing frames from the hive, and do so carefully. ##What to Look For When inspecting your colony, your main objective is to nd evidence of a healthy queen. You can be sure your hive has a queen if you nd the her inside, or if there are eggs in the hive. After 24 hrs eggs hatch into larvae. Eggs are evidence that the queen was present within the last 24 hours, which is second best to nding the queen herself. Ideally you can nd both to know the queen is present AND laying eggs. It takes practice to nd the queen and recognize eggs. Eggs look like small grains of rice at the bottom of a cell, setting them apart from crescent moon-shaped larvae. If you wear glasses remember to bring them with you when inspecting the hive. Moving the frames into the sun sometimes makes it easier to see. Other things to notice when inspecting your hive are pearly-white plump larvae in many stages of growth, convex cell cappings, calm worker bees, and plenty of food stores. If worker bees look deformed, larvae is brown and/or twisted, mites are observed on the backs of any bees, there is a lack of colony growth, brood is dead in the cells, or anything else unusual, consult additional resources to nd out what is going on inside your hive. As mentioned before, the best way to monitor your bees health is to spend plenty of time with them so you will notice when something is different or wrong. ##Watching for Swarming In Spring months, if your colony is strong and healthy it is natural for them to swarm. You can manage your colony to prevent swarming by giving the bees more space. Be careful not to do this too soon or too fast, because the bees still need to heat the space. If you find swarm cells - queen cells on the outer edges of the frames - this is a sign the bees are already getting ready to swarm. Once this happens it is hard to convince them otherwise. [block:api-header] { "type": "basic", "title": "Preparing the Hive for Winter" } [/block] When the last warm days of the season are coming near it is time to get your bees ready for Winter. Using the follower board or false wall, close down the hive to contain only the brood cluster and honey stores. It is best to feed your bees and insulate them with a breathable material. Burtap or tarpaper are sometimes used. Do not use plastic, this can cause molding. You can also use hay bales to block the hive from cold winds. Fall is also the time to administer any medications or mite treatments if you choose to do so. Be sure to wait until after honey harvest to treat your bees. Once you close the hive down for the Winter leave it shut until warm Spring days return. The bees will seal everything with propolis, and you do not want to break their seals during cold weather months. [block:api-header] { "type": "basic", "title": "Harvesting Honey" } [/block] Harvesting honey from your top bar hive is easy to do. Simply use a bee brush to remove the bees from the comb that is full of honey, and cut the comb from the top bar. Smoke can also be used to chase bees from honeycomb. Hang a nylon paint strainer into a ve gallon, food grade bucket. The cut comb can be placed or smashed inside the paint strainer. Honey is heavier than wax and will drain out of the strainer into the bottom of your bucket. This method works best if your honey bucket it kept in a warm place. Comb can also be cut and placed directly into jars. Cover the honey as soon as it is removed or it will be di cult to leave without lots of bees. Honeybees make honey to sustain themselves through long cold Winters. Depending on how long and cold the Winter is, the bees will need a varying amount of honey to make it until Spring. Ideally, a beekeeper’s job is to manipulate the colony into making excess stores so there is enough for us to take. Yet it is hard to guess how long and hard the Winter will be or how much honey the bees will need. Some beekeepers calculate how much honey to take by weight. Some hobbyist beekeepers wait until Spring and take whatever is left over. **Congratulations! You now know the basics of Top Bar beekeeping!**